Summertime Tips, Tricks, & Treatments

Sun damage within the skin can appear in several different ways:

• Hyperpigmentation: brown pigmentation, also known as “sun spots”
• Fine lines/wrinkles/skin laxity: often begins to appear as the sun breaks down collagen and elastin (tissue fibers making up the foundation of our skin)
• Dehydration: heat causes an increase in trans-epidermal water loss, leading to dehydrated/dull looking skin
• Redness from broken capillaries and sun damage caused by a tan or sunburn

Let’s talk hyperpigmentation!

Freckles/sunspots/liver spots/brown spots- they go by many names, but they are all the result of our skin’s melanin production (melanogenesis) when encountering the sun. Treatment for hyperpigmentation is one of the most sought-after treatments in the esthetic world today. While we do have many ways to address treating hyperpigmentation, preventing pigmentation from forming in the first place is another great route to take! How can we do that? By using a combination of tyrosinase inhibitors and sunscreen!

What are tyrosinase inhibitors and why should I use them?

Skin cells produce pigment in reaction to an injury- most often from sun exposure. One of the ways this increase in pigmentation is triggered is by an enzyme called tyrosinase. By using a topical tyrosinase inhibitor, we can help disrupt our skin’s production of pigmentation when met with sun exposure and lessen our chances of developing spots of hyperpigmentation in exposed areas. Widely used tyrosinase inhibitors include Vitamin C serum, kojic acid, azelaic acid, and retinoids (such as prescription tretinoin, and over-the-counter retinol creams). Tyrosinase inhibitors also often have the ability to brighten the skin, and speed up cell turnover, leading to an uptick in collagen/elastin fiber production. In combination with sunscreen, tyrosinase inhibitors are a potent skincare essential!

Did you know that Southwest Michigan Dermatology has its own brand of skincare products? We carry some great cosmeceutical skincare lines, but not every line can do it all, so our dermatologists have elected to have some products made to suit some specific skincare needs they have noticed in patients from their many years of practice. Our Brightening Vitamin C Serum is a patient favorite, containing a mixture of two different vitamin Cs: l-ascorbic acid, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. L-ascorbic acid is a potent form of vitamin c, immediately ready to work on your skin, providing brightening, tyrosinase inhibition, and antioxidant support. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD) is a precursor to l-ascorbic acid, which means that as it hits your skin, your skin takes some time to convert the THD into ascorbic acid. Having this mixture of two types of vitamin C allows for a higher level of vitamin C ingredients in this serum- ours is 20%- without being too harsh for the skin. This delay in conversion provides a buffering effect to those who are new to the product, or who have sensitive skin, and gives the skin more time to adapt to using a topical vitamin C. Our serum also has a very pleasant citrus smell, with a texture that’s super easy to apply!

Why SPF? Which one do I choose?

Sunscreens are photoprotective skincare products meant to protect the skin from damaging UV rays. They come in two main forms- mineral and chemical.

• Mineral sunscreens contain the active ingredients zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide to provide sun protection by reflecting UV rays away from the skin. These tend to be a better option for sensitive skin.
• Chemical sunscreens contain the active ingredients avobenzone, octinoxate, and oxybenzone to provide sun protection. Chemical sunscreen works by absorbing UV rays and converting them into heat, which the body can then release. These tend to be a more cosmetically elegant formulation and are a great option when looking for a water-resistant formula.
• Sunscreens also come in a combination formula, blending both mineral and chemical sunscreen ingredients to harness the benefits each type provides.

Elta MD’s UV Clear SPF is the office favorite around here! It is a hydrating, combination SPF that comes in 3 shades- non-tinted, regular tint, and deep tint. UV Clear is a lightweight formula that sinks into the skin without leaving a white cast or feeling heavy.

Takeaway Tips:

• DO: Use a tyrosinase inhibitor, like a Vitamin C serum in the morning or a retinol at night, to help prevent pigmentation from forming!
• DO: Use SPF to prevent breakdown of the skin’s foundational collagen and elastin!
• DO: Use an SPF with a rating of at least 30 as your daily protection- rain or shine!

Tricks:

• DO: Use mineral powder over tinted SPF to “top up” SPF throughout the day and get SPF coverage for your eyelids. Zinc based mineral powders have a natural SPF protection.
• DO: Use self-tanner and a body-oil based SPF to give skin a hydrated, glowy look without the damage from a true tan!
• DO: Stash a stick-based SPF in several places- a purse, golf bag, the car- to make applying/reapplying SPF on the go much easier!

Summertime Treatments for Hyperpigmentation:

• Glycolic/Lactic Acid Skincare Products and Chemical Peels- these chemical exfoliants help to shed off pigmented cells, brighten the skin, and help boost the skin’s hydration
• Red-light Therapy- helps to speed up skin cell turnover, pushing out pigmentation and calming redness
• Consistent use of SPF and tyrosinase inhibitors

Schedule a consultation with one of our estheticians today! They can help you find the right products and services for your skin’s summertime needs.